Monday, April 23, 2012

Homemade Potato Chips

Homemade Potato Chips


It has been said that we, as Americans, would eat much less junk food if we made it ourselves, so...

The Challenge

Making a snack that is often taken for granted and can easily be bought at any local supermarket at home.

The Source

I originally saw this on an episode of Secrets of a Restaurant Chef.

Ingredients

1 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning
2 tablespoons sugar
2 large baking potatoes, such as Idaho, peeled and shaved into thin slices with a veggie peeler or mandoline
Peanut or veggie oil, for frying

Method

1. In a large container, combine the vinegar, kosher salt, sugar and 2 cups water. Whisk or shake to combine. Toss in the potatoes and refrigerate for 24 hours.


2. In a large wide pot, heat the oil for deep frying to 350° Fahrehneit. Remove the potatoes from the vinegar solution and gently pat dry to remove any excess water.


3. Set up a sheet tray lined with paper towels to land the chips on when they come out of the oil.

4. Working in batches, fry the potatoes until they are brown and crispy. Be careful not to overcrowd the oil, overcrowding will result in greasy limp chips rather than crispy crunchy ones.


5. When the chips come out of the oil, land them on the paper towel setup and give them a sprinkey dink of salt. Let cool and then store them in an airtight container.

Successful?

From a technical standpoint, yes. The chips were crunchy and light. From a taste standpoint, no. Per instructions, I left the potatoes in the brine a full twenty four hours, however my wife thought the chips were too salty. My toddler daughter sure ate them up. If I was to repeat this recipe again, I wouldn't leave the potatoes on the brine so long to prevent this from occuring in the future.

Monday, April 16, 2012

Braised Chicken Thighs with Mushrooms and Almond Purée

Braised Chicken Thighs with Mushrooms and Almond Purée


I have decided to post here less frequently (and as the budget allows) but, especially after my last post, make each dish I publish here count. In other words, quality will trump quantity here. However, it occurred to me recently that I haven't posted a while.

I actually prepared this dish a couple of months ago, but held it back because the preparation wasn't very challenging. After preparing Chef Chiarello's chicken cacciatore dish a few times after I initially wrote about it last year, I must agree with him when he notes that the thigh meat is ideal for braising because they are one of the moistest part of the chicken.

So, hopefully this will hold your attention until I can prepare more challenging food. Might I suggest it for a weeknight dinner to impress some last minute guests?

The Source

Page 150 to 151 of Cook Like A Rock Star by Anne Burrell with Suzanne Lenzer

Mise En Place

Extra-virgin olive oil
8 bone-in skin-on chicken thighs
Kosher salt
2 onions, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 pinch red pepper flakes
2 cloves garlic, smashed and finely chopped
2 pounds assorted mushrooms (such as shitake, oyster, or cremini) trimmed, cleaned and sliced
1 cup dry white wine
4 to 6 cups chicken stock
1 thyme bundle, tied with butcher's twine
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup whole blanched almonds, toasted
Fresh chives, chopped (for garnish)

Method

1. Coat a large wide straight-sided pan with olive oil and bring to high heat. Season the chicken generously with salt and add it, skin side down, to the pan-you should hear a big sizzle. If you don't, remove the chicken and wait. When you put the chicken in the pan, the first thing it wants to do is stick there and the first thing you want to do is move it. Resist the urge. It will unstick itself when it's ready. When the skin is brown and crispy, 5 to 7 minutes, turn the chicken over and brown the other side. Remove the chicken from the pan and reserve.


2. Ditch the fat and lower the heat. Add another splash of olive oil to the pan and add the onions. Season with salt and red pepper and cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes or until the onions are soft and aromatic, then add the garlic and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently.


3. Add the mushrooms and season with salt, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes or until soft and aromatic. Add the wine and cook until reduced by half, 3 to 4 minutes.


4. Return the chicken to the pan, pour in enough stock to almost cover the chicken, and add the thyme bundle and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 30 minutes. Add a little more stock if the liquid level gets low.


5. While the chicken cooks, purée the almonds in a food processor. Once they are ground, drizzle a little olive oil while the machine is running to make a loose paste. Season with salt and reserve.


6. When the chicken has simmered for 30 minutes, remove it from the pan and reserve; remove the bay leaves and thyme bundle and discard. Stir the almond purée into the sauce and taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer to thicken the sauce if needed. Serve the chicken draped with the sauce and garnished with chives.


I followed the instructions exactly, but ultimately found it over seasoned because salt was added to the dish in steps 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6.

Again, thanks for checking in and I have more crazy foodie stunts planned for the near future.

Update: March 18, 2013

This is an updated presentation of the dish. Have I improved my photography?

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Spinach and Ricotta Gnocchi with Fontina Fonduta

Spinach and Ricotta Gnocchi with Fontina Fonduta


This is the type of project I imagined when I conceptualized this website, as it's the most ambitious plate of food I've prepared to date.

Last fall, Food Network aired the fourth season of The Next Iron Chef. The season's twist was that all contestants were celebrity chefs in their own right before entering the competition. Two of the contestants were Chef Anne Burrell and Chef Michael Chiarello. Although the two never worked together in a challenge as a team on the show, I would like to think that, if they had, their dish would look something like this.

Keep in mind that this is not something that can be put together at the last minute on a Wednesday evening. This is a weekend project.

The Challenge

Making an ingredient that is often taken for granted and can easily be bought at any local supermarket at home, then taking that ingredient and using it in another recipe.

The Sources

In his book Michael Chiarello's Casual Cooking by Michael Chiarello with Janet Fletcher, I found a recipe for homemade ricotta cheese on page 39 which will be used in Chef Burrell's recipe.

Ingredients

1 gallon whole milk
1 quart buttermilk

Method

1. Select a sieve or colander with a wide surface area so the curds will cool quickly. Rinse a large piece of cheesecloth or muslin with cold water, then fold it so that it is 6 or more layers, and arrange it in the sieve or colander placed in the sink.


2. Pour the milk and buttermilk into a large nonreactive saucepan. Place over high heat and heat, stirring the mixture frequently with a rubber spatula and making sure to scrape the whole pan bottom to prevent scorching. Once the mixture is warm, stop stirring. As the milk heats, curds will begin to rise and clump on the surface. As the curds begin to form, gently scrape the bottom of the pan with the spatula to release any stuck curds.


3. When the mixture reaches 175⁰ to 180⁰ Fahrenheit, the curds and whey will separate. The whey looks like cloudy water underneath a mass of thick white curds on the surface. Immediately remove the pan from the heat. Working from the side of the pan, gently ladle the whey into the prepared sieve. Go slowly so as not to break up the curds. Finally, ladle the curds into the sieve.


Lift the sides of the cloth to help the liquid drain. Don't press on the curds. When the draining slows, gather the edges of the cloth, tie into a bag, and hang from the faucet. Drain until the dripping stops, about 15 minutes.


4. Untie the bag and pack the ricotta not used in the gnocchi recipe into airtight containers. Refrigerate and use within one week.

Makes about 4 cups.

Chef Burrell's contribution can be found on page 134-135 of Cook Like A Rock Star by Anne Burrell with Suzanne Lenzer. There are differences in writing style, as I've quoted the text found in the respective books, for the most part.

Mise En Place

FOR THE GNOCCHI:
2 pounds ricotta cheese
1 10-ounce package frozen spinach, defrosted, water squeezed out and finely chopped
4 large eggs
2 cups freshly grated Parmigiano, plus more for sprinkling
2 or 3 grates fresh nutmeg
Kosher salt
1/4 to 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
Semolina flour, as needed

FOR THE FONDUTA:
1 pound Fontina cheese, cut into 1-inch squares
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup mascarpone
6 large egg yolks

Method

FOR THE GNOCCHI:
1. Wrap the ricotta in two layers of cheesecloth, secure with string, and put it in a colander set over a bowl in the fridge to drain overnight; the ricotta needs to be really dry.


2. Unwrap the ricotta-the texture should be pretty dry and crumbly-and pass it through a food mill using the attachment with the biggest holes.


In a large bowl, combine the ricotta, spinach, eggs, Parmigiano, and nutmeg and mix well; taste and season with salt if needed. Add 1/4 cup all-purpose flour to the bowl and stir. If the mixture is still very wet, add the remaining flour-you want this to be firm enough to hold its own shape.


3. Dust a baking sheet generously with all-purpose flour. Coat another baking sheet generously with semolina. Fill a disposable pastry bag (or a zip-top bag with one corner cut out) with the ricotta mixture and pipe 1-inch balls onto the flour-lined tray. Shake the tray around to coat the balls in flour, then gently roll each ball around in your hand to smooth it. Put the gnocchi on the semolina-lined tray until you're ready to cook.

All-Purpose Flour Tray
Semolina Flour Tray

FOR THE FONDUTA:
1. In a large bowl, combine the Fontina and cream, cover, and refrigerate overnight.


2. Fill a small saucepan with 1 inch of water and bring to boil, then reduce to a simmer. Put the Fontina and cream in a large heatproof bowl that will sit comfortably on the saucepan without touching the water (a double boiler setup). Whisk the cream frequently until the cheese has melted; then stir in the mascarpone. Beat in the egg yolks one at a time and cook until the mixture has thickened and is hot.Turn off the heat, cover the fonduta with plastic wrap, and reserve in a warm spot.


TO ASSEMBLE THE DISH:
1. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Reduce the heat until the water just simmers and carefully add the gnocchi to the water; cook the dumplings until they float and begin to swell.

2. While the gnocchi cook, spoon the fonduta onto individual serving plates, using the back of a spoon to spread it into 4- to 5-inch circles. Using a spider or slotted spoon, carefully remove the gnocchi from the cooking water, blot them on a tea towel (you don't want to make your lovely sauce watery), and arrange five gnocchi on each plate in the sauce. Sprinkle with Parm and serve.

Successful?

I was a little surprised the ricotta could be made from such simple ingredients. Other than a few rookie mistakes, (I forgot to cut the rind off of the fontina before soaking it in the cream overnight. I also under seasoned the gnocchi batter.) I am happy to report that this was one of the most satisfying dishes I've prepared in a long time. It was a very challenging dish to prepare, yet worth the effort.