Riso alla Pitocca: Traditional Rice and Chicken

Riso alla Pitocca: Traditional Rice and Chicken

Did I mention how much I love braises in cold weather? This would be the fourth braised dish I've published this month (the third with chicken) so I'm declaring December the month of braising here at Crazy Foodie Stunts. This one caught my eye when I was preparing the polenta for the chicken cacciatore dish because it was on the opposite page from the polenta recipe. It uses Arborio rice in a way that I've never seen before (namely, risotto or arancini).

The Challenge

Using an alternate method to prepare an ingredient

The Source

Adapted from page 90 of Lidia's Favorite Recipes by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali.

Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch chunks
1 cup onion, coarsley chopped
1 cup carrot, coarsley chopped
1 cup celery, coarsley chopped
2 large cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 bay leaf
1 cup dry white wine
5 cups turkey stock, hot
2 cups Arborio rice
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons, fresh Italian parsley, chopped
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano, plus more for garnish

Method

1. Combine the onion, carrots, celery and garlic in a food processor and pulse to mince into a mirepoix.

2. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the mirepoix and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mirepoix has adsorbed the liquid, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken with the bay leaf and season with the remaining salt. Stir occasionally until the chicken has browned and caramelized on all sides, about 4 minutes.

3. Raise the heat and deglaze with the white wine, scraping any fond on the bottom of the pan, cooking until the wine has almost evaporated. Stir in the hot stock and add the rice. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce heat to so the rice is bubbling gently. Cook until the rice and the chicken have cooked through and the consistency is creamy, about 14 minutes. Remove from heat and add the butter. Stir vigourously until melted. Stir in the parsley and 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano. Serve immediately in warmed pasta bowls.

Successful?

Despite a some flaws in execution (I'd use less mirepoix), I was very satisfied with this dish. It reminded me of risotto but a far easier preparation method.

One-Pot Chicken and Rice Redux

Readers of my old website might remember seeing this recipe about a year ago. It begs the obvious question why publish it again, dummy? Well, when I first prepared this dish, I remember the rice was flavorful, but the chicken was bland. After preparing this dish a few more times, I eventually fixed it by using a brine.

What exactly is a brine? A brine is basically a salt water solution along with other seasonings to add moisture and flavor, resulting in juicier food. Marinades are similar to brines but work to tenderize and add flavor to proteins using an acidic ingredient such as vinegars or citrus juices.

The Challenge

Fix an inferior concept while elevating a dish and demonstrating a technique to improve flavor.

The Source

The brine is original but the dish has been adapted from page 345 of America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook Third Edition.

Ingredients

2 quarts water
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup white sugar
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, cracked
1 bay leaf
Juice from 1/2 lemon
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 sprig rosemary
1 sprig thyme
4 bone-in, skin on split chicken breasts 5 bone-in, skin on chicken thighs
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped medium
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups long grain white rice
3 1/2 cups low sodium chicken broth
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 10-ounce package frozen broccoli spears, thawed and chopped medium
4 ounces cheddar cheese, shredded (approximately 1 cup)
lemon wedges (for serving)
*Items italicized can be changed depending on availability, and preference.

Method

1. Whisk 1/2 cup kosher salt and 1/2 cup white sugar into 2 quarts water until dissolved. Stir in the (other seasonings) and submerge the chicken completely in the brine and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours in a resealable bag, turning halfway through.

2. Remove the chicken from the brine and discard the brine. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium high heat until just smoking. Add the chicken, skin side down and cook until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate, leaving the fat in the pot.

3. Add the onion, red pepper flakes, and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt to the fat in the pot and place over medium heat. Cook, scraping up any fond (browned bits) until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes.

4. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Stir in the rice and cook until the edges turn translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the broth and the wine and bring to a simmer.

5. Return the chicken to the pot, skin side up. Cover, reduce heat to low and cook until the chicken is fully cooked through and registers 175 Fahrenheit on an instant read thermometer, about 25 minutes.

6. Transfer the chicken to a serving platter. Pat the broccoli dry, then stir into the rice. Stir in the cheddar and let it melt for 1 minute. Season the rice mixture with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with lemon wedges.

Successful?

Yes, both the rice and the chicken were flavorful.

Stuffed Chicken Thighs Braised in Tomato Sauce

Stuffed Chicken Thighs Braised in Tomato Sauce

About six months into my first website, I attempted a stuffed chicken thigh recipe, however I wasn't satisfied with the results. It was wrapped in bacon and stuffed with bread crumbs. As I remember it, the stuffing tasted good, but the chicken meat was very bland. I didn't season the chicken because I expected the bacon to add flavor to the chicken as it cooked. Ironically, it was one of my most popular recipes.

The Challenge

Fix and elevate a concept I previously executed poorly.

The Source

This recipe was taken from delish.com.

Ingredients

FOR THE CHICKEN AND STUFFING:
1 cup frozen (but thawed) or cooked spinach, squeezed dry
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs from day-old bread, preferably whole wheat
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons fennel fronds, chopped
2 tablespoons shallots, finely chopped
1 tablespoon garlic, chopped
2 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, divided
1/2 teaspoon salt, divided
10 four-to-five ounce boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE SAUCE:
2 cups onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup carrot, finely chopped
1/2 cup fennel bulb, diced
1/4 cup shallot, finely chopped
2 tablespoon garlic, minced
1 1/2 cup dry white wine
3 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
2 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped
2 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt

Method

1. Combine spinach and breadcrumbs in a medium bowl with the Parmesan, egg, fennel fronds, shallot, garlic, thyme, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon salt until well blended. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 day.

Chicken Stuffing

2. Place a chicken thigh smooth-side down on a work surface. Fill the thigh with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the stuffing, first filling the area (or pocket) left by the bone and placing the rest in the center of the thigh. Roll the thigh closed and secure with 2 pieces of kitchen string. Repeat with the remaining thighs and stuffing. (You may have leftover stuffing.) Season with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper and salt.

Stuffing and Tying the Chicken

3. Heat oil in a large, heavy, high-sided skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium and add half the thighs, seam-side down. Cook, turning 2 or 3 times, until brown on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a clean plate and repeat with the remaining thighs.

4. Add onion, carrot, fennel, shallots, and garlic to the pan. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add wine and scrape up any browned bits; bring to a boil over medium heat and continue to boil until the liquid is reduced by about half, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in broth, tomatoes, basil, thyme, and the chicken thighs. Bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered and turning the thighs occasionally, until cooked through and tender, 35 to 40 minutes.

Mirepoix Browning

Deglazed with White Wine

Braising Fluid Simmering

5. Remove the thighs with a slotted spoon; tent with foil to keep warm. Simmer the sauce further to thicken it, if desired, or thin with a little broth or water if it's too thick. Season with 1/2 teaspoon pepper and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Serve the chicken with the sauce.

NOTE:

1. To make fresh breadcrumbs, tear bread into pieces and process in a food processor until coarse crumbs form. One slice of bread makes about 1/2 cup fresh crumbs.

Successful?

From a flavor standpoint, this dish far exceeded the oringinal one two years ago. However, I felt like I was coming full circle because the preparation work was a marathon. With experience, I've become better organized and dishes that used to take me three hours when I first started out can now be completed in one-third to half the time.

This was not the case here. I used the leftover spinach from the gnocchi recipe, however the only Parmesan I had was in wedge form so I hand grated it, and my food processor got a workout chopping the fennel fronds, carrots, shallots, and garlic plus grinding the breadcrumbs. I also hand stripped the leaves from the thyme sprigs and hand diced the fennel bulb. In addition, tying the stuffed thighs was a project by itself. It was a very good dish, but I don't think I'll repeat it often due to the amount of work involved.

Braised Chicken Thighs with Mushrooms and Almond Purée

Braised Chicken Thighs with Mushrooms and Almond Purée

I have decided to post here less frequently (and as the budget allows) but, especially after my last post, make each dish I publish here count. In other words, quality will trump quantity here. However, it occurred to me recently that I haven't posted a while.

I actually prepared this dish a couple of months ago, but held it back because the preparation wasn't very challenging. After preparing Chef Chiarello's chicken cacciatore dish a few times after I initially wrote about it last year, I must agree with him when he notes that the thigh meat is ideal for braising because they are one of the moistest part of the chicken.

So, hopefully this will hold your attention until I can prepare more challenging food. Might I suggest it for a weeknight dinner to impress some last minute guests?

The Source

Page 150 to 151 of Cook Like A Rock Star by Anne Burrell with Suzanne Lenzer

Mise En Place

Extra-virgin olive oil
8 bone-in skin-on chicken thighs
Kosher salt
2 onions, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 pinch red pepper flakes
2 cloves garlic, smashed and finely chopped
2 pounds assorted mushrooms (such as shitake, oyster, or cremini) trimmed, cleaned and sliced
1 cup dry white wine
4 to 6 cups chicken stock
1 thyme bundle, tied with butcher's twine
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup whole blanched almonds, toasted
Fresh chives, chopped (for garnish)

Method

1. Coat a large wide straight-sided pan with olive oil and bring to high heat. Season the chicken generously with salt and add it, skin side down, to the pan-you should hear a big sizzle. If you don't, remove the chicken and wait. When you put the chicken in the pan, the first thing it wants to do is stick there and the first thing you want to do is move it. Resist the urge. It will unstick itself when it's ready. When the skin is brown and crispy, 5 to 7 minutes, turn the chicken over and brown the other side. Remove the chicken from the pan and reserve.

2. Ditch the fat and lower the heat. Add another splash of olive oil to the pan and add the onions. Season with salt and red pepper and cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes or until the onions are soft and aromatic, then add the garlic and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently.

3. Add the mushrooms and season with salt, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes or until soft and aromatic. Add the wine and cook until reduced by half, 3 to 4 minutes.

4. Return the chicken to the pan, pour in enough stock to almost cover the chicken, and add the thyme bundle and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 30 minutes. Add a little more stock if the liquid level gets low.

5. While the chicken cooks, purée the almonds in a food processor. Once they are ground, drizzle a little olive oil while the machine is running to make a loose paste. Season with salt and reserve.

6. When the chicken has simmered for 30 minutes, remove it from the pan and reserve; remove the bay leaves and thyme bundle and discard. Stir the almond purée into the sauce and taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer to thicken the sauce if needed. Serve the chicken draped with the sauce and garnished with chives.

I followed the instructions exactly, but ultimately found it over seasoned because salt was added to the dish in steps 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6.

Again, thanks for checking in and I have more crazy foodie stunts planned for the near future.

Update: March 18, 2013

This is an updated presentation of the dish. Have I improved my photography?

Coq au Vin

Coq au Vin

For this dish I remain in Europe, but go west to France. With Mardi Gras having just past (and New Orleans cuisine heavily influenced by the French), I wanted to get in the spirit by cooking this dish. It's also a dish that has been on the To Cook list for a while now.

The Challenge

Using some advanced techniques in a braised chicken dish such as building flavor with a mirepoix, and using a roux to make a slurry.

The Source

I chose to replicate Marc Matsumoto's dish off of his site, No Recipes, partially because he created this dish from leftovers. I'm not good enough yet to be able to do this but I have taken steps towards this goal.

The only omission I made from the original was cipollini onions simply because the supermarket was out of stock when I went shopping for ingredients.

Ingredients

1/3 pound extra thick cut bacon cut into batons
8 skin-on bone-in chicken thighs
1 large onion, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
4 cloves garlic sliced thin
1 splash Cognac or Armanac
2 cups red wine
2 cups chicken stock
1 or 2 bay leaves
6 sprigs thyme
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons flour
8 ounces button mushrooms, quartered
8 ounces cipollini onions, peeled
1/3 cup flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped

Method

1. In a large chef’s pan or dutch oven, fry the bacon over medium heat until most of the fat has rendered out (but not until the bacon is crisp). Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon to a paper towel lined plate to drain. Generously salt and pepper the chicken thighs and place in the hot pan, skin side down. Leave undisturbed for 6-7 minutes or until skin is golden brown, then flip allowing to brown lightly on the second side. Transfer to plate.

Chicken Sauté

2. Remove 2 Tbs of fat from the pan and set aside in a small bowl. Add the onion, celery and garlic and saute until soft, scrapping the fond off the bottom of the pan so it doesn’t burn. Hit the pan with a generous splash of Cognac to deglaze the pan. Allow most of the liquid to evaporate, then add the red wine, chicken stock, bay leaf, thyme, and tomato paste. Return the bacon and chicken to the pan and turn several times to make sure they are well coated and submerged in the liquid. Cover with the lid slightly askew (so steam can escape) and simmer over medium low heat until the chicken is tender 35 to 45 minutes.

Reserved Fat

Deglazed mirepoix

Chicken and Bacon Added Back to the Braising Fluid

3. Add 2 Tbs flour to the fat you’ve reserved and stir until there are no lumps. When the chicken is tender, transfer to a plate and tent with foil. Add the mushrooms and onions to the pan and turn up the heat to medium, simmering uncovered for about 15 minutes or until the onions are cooked and the sauce has reduced a bit. Add a few tablespoons of sauce to the fat/flour mixture and stir to make a slurry. Add the slurry to the sauce in the pan one spoonful at a time, mixing well after each addition to make sure there are no lumps. I don’t like my sauce too thick, so I stopped about 2/3 of the way through, but if you like a very thick sauce, you can add all the roux. Salt and pepper to taste, then return the chicken to to pot to reheat and coat with the sauce. Serve over mashed potatoes, egg noodles, or as a stew with a crusty baguette. Garnish with the parsley.

Flour Added...

...to Form a Roux

Braising Fluid Added to the Roux to Form a Slurry

Mushrooms Added to Finish the Sauce

Successful?

Yes, the slurry made the sauce rich with depth of flavor that is difficult to describe.