Thursday, January 2, 2014

Lamb Shanks Roasted “a la Matignon”

Lamb Shanks Roasted “a la Matignon”


Happy 2014!

Before I proceed, I must first apologize for my extended absence last month. It wasn't planned but I found myself too busy to prepare a presentation-worthy dish. One issue I have been wrestling with over the course of the last few months is one of evolution. I'm still inspired by unusual cooking techniques, but I'm becoming confident in my execution. I've also discovered in this past year that pairing food and achieving balance of flavors has inspired me which takes time to plan my dishes.

I learned of this dish back in September when Chef Thomas Keller prepared it for Williams Sonoma during a live Google+ event. I was fascinated by it because I have never roasted lamb shanks and wanted to see for myself if the meat will break down enough to become tender. Also, the sauce intrigued me because I imagined it was extremely flavorful given the size of the mirepoix.

The Challenge

Successfully execute a cooking method I had never attempted.

The Source

The recipe for this dish can be found on the Williams-Sonoma website.

Ingredients

4 lamb shanks, approximately 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 pounds
Kosher salt
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon canola oil
1/2 cup chicken stock
3 large yellow onions, diced
4 large carrots, diced
2 large leeks, cleaned well and diced
4 large garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
6 thyme sprigs, 6 parsley stems and 2 bay leaves tied together to form a bouquet garni
1 cup red wine
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon chives, chopped fine
Cooked polenta for serving

Method

1. Finish the mise en place: Preheat the oven to 275° Fahrenheit. Rinse the lamb shanks with cold water, then pat them dry and let them come up to room temperature, approximately 30 minutes.

2. Brown the shanks: Season the shanks with kosher salt. In a large sauté pan, heat 1/2 cup oil over high heat and, once hot, sear the shanks, on all sides and in batches of two until brown. Adjust the heat to prevent burning, if necessary. Once browned, remove the shanks and discard the oil.


3. Sweat the mirepoix and roast the shanks: Return the pan to medium-high heat and deglaze it with chicken stock, loosening any fond from the bottom with a wooden spoon. When the stock has almost evaporated, add the onions, carrots, leeks, garlic, bouquet garni and the remaining tablespoon oil, stirring frequently. Season the vegetables with kosher salt. Once the vegetables have softened but before they have browned, add the red wine and bring to a boil. Add the shanks back into the pan and cover it. Once the fluid starts to simmer, transfer the pan to the oven. Roast the shanks until the lamb is tender and the meat is almost falling off the bone, about 3 hours.


4. Finish the dish: Once the lamb has roasted, remove from the oven and let it rest to allow for any carryover cooking, approximately 30 minutes. Turn the temperature down to its lowest temperature and remove the lamb shanks to a serving platter, cover with aluminum foil, then put in the oven to keep warm. Strain the vegetables into a fat separator, and once separated, pour back into the original sauté pan. Add the red wine vinegar, then bring to a boil. Taste the sauce for desired consistency and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Serve with polenta and garnish with chives.


Successful?

I shouldn't have been surprised but the sauce yielded incredible depth of flavor and balanced the lamb well. Despite my skepticism, the lamb was very tender and cook all the way through. My only criticism? The portion size is a little too big.

Monday, December 9, 2013

Presenting: Ravioli di Ricotta con Burro Bruno e Salvia

Ravioli di Ricotta con Burro Bruno e Salvia


I might have fibbed a little when I published my #WeekdaySupper dish. I noted that the ingredients used to compose it are ones that should be already on hand. Well, I must admit, I had to purchase the ricotta specifically for the dish. When I went to do so, the smallest container I could find was about 2 cups so I had a lot leftover. I didn't want the extra ricotta to go to waste so I used it for ravioli filling.

The Challenge

Practice my photography and plating.

The Source

I used the pasta dough from page 102 to 104 of Cook Like A Rock Star by Anne Burrell with Suzanne Lenzer; the filling from epicurious and the sauce from page 20 of Fabio's Italian Kitchen by Fabio Viviani with Melanie Rehak.

Ingredients

For the filling:
1 pound fresh ricotta, drained if wet
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest (from about 1/2 a lemon)
1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for garnish
1 large egg
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the pasta dough:
3 3/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
4 large eggs
1 egg yolk
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons water
kosher salt

For the sauce:
1 stick unsalted butter
12 to 14 sage leaves, chopped plus more for garnish
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. Prepare the filling. Combine the first five ingredients in a large bowl, then season with salt and pepper. Cover and set aside in the refrigerator until the pasta dough has been rolled.

2. Prepare the pasta dough. Use the pasta dough ingredients and steps 1 and 2 of my other ravioli dish.

3. Make the ravioli. If you have a ravioli mold, use it according to the manufacturer's instructions. If you don't, follow step 4 in this dish.

4. Cook the dish. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Combine the butter and sage in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Melt the butter and continue to cook until it turns brown and gives off a nutty aroma. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Drop the ravioli in the boiling water and once they float to the surface, remove with a slotted spoon and add to the butter sauce until combined. Plate the ravioli in warmed bowls, spoon some sauce over and garnish with grated parmesan.

Successful?

I've learned through experience that the key to a good brown butter sauce is to season it well. My daughter is rather picky and she even enjoyed it. One other note I'd like to make is that I have been able to resolve my issues with the ravioli mold that I had earlier in the year. I discovered that the pasta dough I used previously was too dry and needed more wet ingredients.


Sunday, December 1, 2013

Back to Basics: How to Truss a Chicken for Roasting for a We Got You Covered #SundaySupper

This entry on my website is different from all the other posts I've completed for #SundaySupper because it's not a finished dish. This week's theme is We Got You Covered, and many of my other colleagues have decided to prepare food with delicious toppings but I thought I'd use another angle. I have decided to "cover" a basic cooking technique used when roasting a chicken.

If you google truss a chicken, there are thousands of results on how to do so, but I have found that the reasons for taking this extra step aren't as clear. As I looked, I found reasons such as keeping the, ahem, chicken's dignity, making the bird easier to turn, and cooking evenly.

The importance of evenly cooking your chicken is the first reason I was told to truss because the breast needs to be cooked to a temperature of 165° Fahrenheit, but the wings, thighs and drumsticks are fully cooked at 175° Fahrenheit. Trussing the bird will ensure to fully cook the dark meat while not overcooking the breast meat. In addition, I've also noted anecdotally that trussing the chicken will make for a juicier bird.

You will need a 36" to 48" piece of kitchen twine which, for some strange reason, I've been unable to purchase at the supermarket, but the meat and seafood department have always just given me some when I've requested it.

So, exactly how do you truss your chickens?

1. With the breast side down, tuck the wing tips behind the back.


2. Turn the chicken over and place the twine underneath the narrowest part of the drumsticks, so that when you lift the twine up, the length of the twine should be about equal on each side.


3. Place the twine over each leg bone and then underneath the opposite side. Pull tight.


4. Wrap the twine along each side, passing it through the drumstick-thigh joint and enclosing the wings.


5. Tie the twine where the neck used to be.


6. Roast per your recipe.

Before you truss, be sure to season the inside of the cavity and the outside of the bird with some type of fat (olive oil, butter, etc.) to encourage a golden brown skin.

Other Sunday Supper Participants

And finally, please check out this week's other Sunday Supper contributors:

Sunday Supper Movement

Covered Appetizers and Entreés
Covered Desserts
Not Sure What To Do? We Got You Covered

Join the #SundaySupper conversation on twitter on Sunday! We tweet throughout the day and share recipes from all over the world. Our weekly chat starts at 7:00 pm ET. Follow the #SundaySupper hashtag and remember to include it in your tweets to join in the chat. Check out our #SundaySupper Pinterest board for more fabulous recipes and food photos.

Would you like to join the Sunday Supper Movement? It’s easy! You can sign up by clicking here: Sunday Supper Movement.